Top 16 Sewing Trick on How to Sew A zipper Correctly without Waves

Sewing in a zipper seems simple enough – align the two sides, stitch it in, and you’re done. But in reality, zippers can be frustrating and leave you with less than satisfactory results if not inserted properly. Nothing ruins a great-looking garment or project faster than a lumpy, wavy zipper! Avoid this common sewing catastrophe by learning and following these essential tricks for sewing smooth, flawless zippers every time.

Why Zippers Can Cause Problems

To diagnose and prevent wavy or lumpy zippers, you first need to understand what underlying issues typically cause the problems. Here are some of the main culprits when it comes to tricky zipper insertion:

Teeth Misalignment Causes Waves

If the zipper teeth become misaligned with the fabric edges while sewing, this results in the fabric being pushed and pulled unevenly by the teeth when opening and closing the zipper. The end result? An unsightly wavy distortion in the fabric.

Fabric Puckering Around Zipper

Another common zipper headache is fabric puckering around the edges after it’s inserted. This happens when there is too much fabric in the seam allowance, or the fabric wasn’t interfaced for extra stability. The extra fabric gets pushed around when inserting the zipper, causing ripples.

Invisible Zippers Require Precision

Invisible zippers must be perfectly straight when sewing them in or the teeth will become visible. If even slightly crooked, you’ll end up with a bumpy line visible through lightweight fabrics instead of a smooth invisible closure.

Preparation Is Key

Many struggles with inserting zippers smoothly stem from inadequate preparation. Here are some key steps to complete before you start sewing in that pesky zipper.

Choose the Right Zipper

Select a zipper type and weight appropriate for the fabric you are using. For lighter fabrics, opt for lighter weight zippers so fabric doesn’t ripple around the closure. Nylon coil invisible zippers prevent visible lines under delicate fabrics.

Interface Stabilizer Prevents Puckering

Cut and fuse lightweight interfacing to the zipper seam allowance on each side of fabric you plan to insert zipper. This adds stability and prevents stretching that leads to puckers.

Mark and Press Seam Allowances

Mark 4mm to 6mm seam allowances on fabric with tailor’s chalk, a washable marker, or pinned tape measure for accurate zipper alignment. Press them flat with an iron.

Inserting the Zipper

Once fabric is prepped, it’s time for the actual zipper installation. Go slowly, double check alignments, and follow these steps for smooth sailing:

Baste Zipper in Place

Before permanently stitching, hand baste zipper closed using a contrasting color thread and long stitches. This allows adjustments if needed before final sewing.

Sew Close to Teeth from Top to Bottom

Use zipper foot and stitch length 2.5 or shorter. Sew close to zipper teeth starting 2” from top. Stop 2” from bottom. Doing entire side at once can shift teeth alignment.

Hand Stitch Ends for Invisible Zippers

For invisible zippers, hand stitch and tie off thread ends so needle doesn’t hit closure starts/stops and shift teeth.

Press Zipper Flat Before Top Stitching

Give zipper a final press with iron after stitching both sides to flatten it out perfectly even against fabric on both sides. This helps prevent waves or bumps when top stitching.

Troubleshooting Waves

If you end up with a wavy or lumpy zipper, don’t panic! Here are tricks to smooth it out:

Check Teeth Alignment, Adjust if Needed

If fabric is rippling against teeth, they may be shifted slightly off from edges. Open zipper, realign, pin, and re-sew if needed.

Remove Stitches and Re-sew Crooked Areas

For bumpy areas with stitches that veer off course, remove them then re-sew just that section.

Consider a Lapped Zipper for Tricky Fabrics

Very lightweight or slippery fabrics can shift easily causing waves. Use a lapped zipper application instead for better alignment.

Conclusion

Sewing zippers does take some finesse, patience, and the right techniques to master. But you can get smooth, beautiful zipper results every time by:

Taking Your Time with Zippers

Don’t rush the prep work or stitching! Carefully measured seam allowances and hand basted zippers are game changers.

Proper Prep Prevents Problems

Interface, steam, and precisely press fabrics so they won’t stretch or shift during construction.

Correct Tools and Techniques = Smooth Zippers

Invest in the right zipper foot, needles, and hand sew ends for best results.

Knowing what causes zipper waves and bumps paired with proper preparation and insertion techniques will have you zipping through projects with perfectly smooth closures in no time!

FAQs

What length zipper do I need?

Measure from top to bottom of the zipper opening and add an extra 1 1⁄2 – 2 inches to allow for seam allowances top and bottom. It’s better for a zipper to be slightly longer than too short!

What zipper foot should I use?

A zipper foot is essential, as it allows closely stitching right next to the zipper teeth on each side. Both regular and invisible zipper feet are very useful.

How do I shorten a zipper?

Mark new stopping point on zipper tape on both sides with chalk or pens. Use pliers to gently pry apart coils at markings, detach excess zipper, squeeze ends back with pliers.

Can I fix a wavy zipper after sewing it in?

It is possible to rip out stitches and re-sew zipper areas that got distorted and wavy. Just be very careful unstitching so you don’t damage fabric or zipper.

What interfacing works best with zippers?

Lightweight sew-in interfacing works perfectly to stabilize zipper areas without adding bulk. Fuse it to seam allowances before construction.

Disclosure This review contains affiliate links and we may receive a commission for purchases made. Please read our affiliates FAQ page to find out more.

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